2 years ago #1
swap.blue
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I have few oscars in my tank which i bought yesterday but since morning one small oscar was lying on its side and wasn't moving at all ,even at feeding time .
Its just breathing .

What had happened to it can anyone tell??
and wat shud I do to treat it as there is no specialized aquarium expert in my area ...

P.S. At this time only I have provided them heater with temp. 30 degree C.Also I have separated him in a net type thing as according to me other fish cud harm him.
I noticed now only that his one eye is cloudy

Here are some PICS of it




And heres a Video too as I wasnt able to express wats happening
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2zDp9PNXBrE& feature=youtu.be

Well as there was no response on my post I did following :
1.Placed an aq. heater at set the temp. to 30 degree
2.Tried to feed him boiled de-shelled peas ,he was eating them by open his mouth only small size .


Results: He has started moving his fins but slowly ,though he isnt moving at all


Hope anyone helps me

Answer
2 years ago #2
johnarthur
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Somehow I managed to delete my first answer.

When you buy a fish from the pet shop, he gets netted, bagged, transported, then placed in a completely new environment (your aquarium) which very likely has water parameters much different from those in the pet shop display tank. The resultant stress is often deadly. It's too late to change any of that now, but next time you may want to try drip acclimation:
http://www.myaquariumclub.com/the-drip-acclimation- method-78.html

Since the damage has already been done, the focus turns to recovery. The oscar is obviously stressed from the move, and recovery, if it happens, will be slow.

First, make sure temperature and pH are suitable for oscars. Next, check toxic nitrogen compounds; ammonia and nitrite should always measure zero, and nitrate should be below 40 ppm. Finally, release the oscar back into the aquarium unless tankmates are harassing him.

If toxic nitrogen compounds are not at the recommended levels, change about 25 percent of the water every other day until they are. While removing water, remove any uneaten food and debris off the substrate surface. Adjust the replacement water temperature to roughly that of the aquarium, and treat it with a good tap water conditioner.

After toxic nitrogen compounds are at the required levels, change about 25 percent of the water each week, and always try to feed no more than the fish actually eat in a couple of minutes. For now, don't worry about the oscar not eating; it's another indication of stress.

The above steps may seem simple, but they offer the best chance at getting well. Good luck, and please keep us posted.

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2 years ago #3
swap.blue
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Sadly he died

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2 years ago #4
swap.blue
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Shud I buy a pH test kit ??
As the master test kit is too expensive for me

Will pH of water determine ammonia and nitrite lvls??
Ammonia has a 11 ph maybe

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2 years ago #5
jlk
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Ph is almost irrelevant here- you need to know your numbers for ammonia, nitrite & nitrate. Ammonia & nitrite will sicken & kill your fish. Start with purchasing the ammonia & nitrite tests. When you have more funds, you can purchase the nitrate & ph tests. Or, at the very least, take samples of both your tap water & tank water to be tested at your lfs. Write these numbers down & let us know what they read & we can better advise you. With an uncycled tank, you really need to be able to check your numbers daily.

Amazon sells the api fw master test kits for $18-24. This is quite a bit cheaper than most lfs that sell them for $35+. Its also cheaper to purchase the master test kt vs purchasing each individual test (would cost over $50).

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2 years ago #6
johnarthur
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If you can afford only one test, ammonia is probably the most important, because it is produced directly by the fish. Pet shops will often test the water for free, but the results are not always accurate. Still, it's better than nothing.

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2 years ago #7
swap.blue
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Here the LFS dont test water at all , and dont do that nitrogen cycle .
I learnt from you guys about partial water change etc.

Even if I buy online it would cost 35$+ which are a lot here .
I can afford a pH kit and a Ammonia test kit with Testing range – <phone> , 4.0 and 5.0 * ppm

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2 years ago #8
swap.blue
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Wat shud I do now so that other fishes dont undergo same sickness without testing water

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2 years ago #9
jlk
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I would do water changes daily with temperature matched, properly conditioned water until you can test ammonia & nitrite.

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