My goldfish has been lethargic this week. I cleaned his tank tonight, and I just noticed white spots on his tail and a big white bump on his fin. I've Googled it, but I'm getting mixed opinions. So I snapped a few photos, and I'm wondering what this is and what to do. He certainly isn't lethargic anymore, especially when I was trying to take his picture.
Just have a few questions here: what is your tank size? your ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels?, how often and how much do you change water and what water conditioner do you use and do you use API master test to test the water?
Those are the stats we look for to help us determine why your fish may be having this problem. As to the problem do the spots look like salt grandulars or are they fuzzy? Are they else where on the body or just at the tail? I would start frequent water changes like 25-50% twice a day. My fish also had that problem. (it died because of other circumstances). Our resident goldfish expert states that most fish problenms are due to water quality (high ammonia) and frequent water changes would be the first step in trying to solve that problem.
Hope our goldfish guru will come on here to help you.
I use Start Right to condition the water, but only when I clean the tank/do water changes. It's a 10 gallon tank with just my one fish. I've had him for over two years. I only clean the tank every two months or so, but he's always been happy and healthy for the most part. I've only ever used test strips when I thought something was wrong, like him being lethargic. But a 50% water change has always got him back to normal. I have API 5 in 1 test strips, but I lost the color chart. Can you make sense of it? This is all I can find online. http://www.apifishcare.com/pdf/
I just did a 50% water change today, so the test strips might not prove anything, huh?
Also, I think there's some white stuff on his left eye too. I always thought it was just a reflection.
Its not ich but a mild infection from poor water quality. 10g is honestly too small for any goldfish and he really needs atleast a 30g along with a good water change and maintenance schedule. Lots of healthy water will clear up the infection but the cloudiness on his eye is the result of toxin burns and is essentially scar tissue at this point in time and will remain.
I would start changing 50% his water with a good water conditioner such as Prime daily until you can upgrade his home. The healthy water should clear up his issues but if it doesn't start to clear within a week, please let us know! Please read the article below as well and ask any questions.
Goldfish 101- http://www.myaquariumclub.com/goldfish-101- 11174823.html
Mason I would invest in Prime water conditioner. I used to do test with strips but it would not tell my ammonia levels. And I would invest in API Master test kit from Amazon (the cheapest I have found. Strips may be cheap in the short run but others have figured out that a years worth of API master test will save you money.
also a 10g tank for a fancy is way too small for it. Jlk our resident goldfish guru has a a pic of a an adult and a baby side by side and you can see the difference! It is amazing! How big is your fish?
You always need to test your water before you do water changes, just to check your parameters. If your ammonia is at .25 then do a 25% water change. If it is at .50-1 then a 50% is required and then a couple of hours later another 50%. Like I said always test your water before you change. Right now I would do the frequent water changes as I stated before.
Today I bought a 30 gallon tank, Prime conditioner, and a test kit. I'm posting the results for you to take a look. Is the NO3 supposed to be that high?
Franklin has been back to his old self since I did the 50% water change. He's been swimming and hunting in the rocks.
Congrats on the upgrade!
Ok, the readings you posted- are they from his tank? The new tank? Please test your tap water so we have a comparison. You also need to check your ph with the high range ph test. 7.6 is the limit of the test which means your ph may be higher (not a big deal though).
The readings are from the 10 gallon tank. I just finished setting up my new one, and I'm waiting 24 hours before testing the water and moving Franklin.
I'll test the tap water in just a few minutes.
you may need to wait in moving fraklin cause your new tank needs to be cycled unless jlk thinks it is okay to move him after 24 hours from the setting up the tank. you might want to wait for jlk to give you the go ahead in moving franklin. she is our resident goldfish guru.
Here are the test results from my tap.
And here is the high range pH from the 10 gallon tank.
I noticed in your guide it suggests 50%-75% weekly water changes minimum. I've never done more than 50% because I read somewhere to only do 25%-50% because anything more could stress out the fish. Is that something I should be worrying about?
Ok, your ph is sitting at a solid 8.2-8.3. Which is fine! What type of filter and substrate are in the 10g?
Very simply, as long as the new tank ph and temp are the same, you can move him over. If they are even slightly different, take some time to acclimate him. Move your 10g filter & old media over to the new tank. Move any decor to the new tank. If you have gravel and want to add it, that's fine. Or take the gravel from the 10 & put it in a nylon pantyhose sock & place this in the tank under the filter flow. As your 10 is cycled, by moving the cycled elements over to the new tank, you will basically be instantly cycling the new tank. Run the new filter with the old filter for 4-6wks to establish the new filter. Just keep an eye on your toxin levels for any possible spikes. 50% a week should be sufficient as long as the toxins don't spike and nitrates stay under control.
I've moved everything but the 10g filter and Franklin, and I did another 50% water change last night. Is he good to move tonight as long as the pH is similar?
Yes, check the ph and temp. Temp should be within 2 degrees and ph should be within .2 between the two tanks. If they are the same, even better! He may be a bit stressed at first so keep the lights off and everything calm until he settles in. Just keep an eye on your parameters over the next few weeks to make sure there are no spikes.
Any tips on getting the 30g tank's temperature down? I was dumb and tried out the heater that was included in the package.
Also, Franklin loves the thermometer.
The temp looks to be about in the mid 70's (or 23-24c). Not terribly high. The heater should be adjustable but as long as its in the 70-75 range, its perfectly fine!
The heater says it's 75-79, so I took it out of the tank. The issue is that the tanks are 6 degrees apart now. At least that's how I'm reading the thermometer. I think every dash is 2 degrees, isn't it?
Adjust the heater down a bit and keep it (70-75). This thermometer is honestly a bit hard to read! At some point in the future, you may want to consider a little digital one that reads to 0.0 (they run for less $5) that you can stick in the tank. Ebay has them all over the place for about $2.
If the heater is off/out, which tank is warmer? The one he is in or the other one? Just add the heater to the other cooler one and let it warm up close to warmer one (within 2 degrees).
The heater unfortunately only has a range of 75-79, according to the manual. It's what came with the aquarium. I've never used a heater before. The water's always been in the lower 70's.
I thought about putting the heater in the smaller tank, where Franklin is, but I was afraid it would get too warm.
I wanted a digital thermometer, but I couldn't find one at Petco. I bought what they supposedly use for their own tanks.
I don't use heaters but I believe you can override whatever the 'preset' temp is. You would need to ask a new question about the heater and give the specific brand/make/model, etc. and ask how to do this- Im sure someone knows!
So it's been 10 days since Franklin moved into his new tank, and his infection is completely gone. I can't thank you enough for all your help!
I just had a few more questions. I'm going to be doing water changes much more regularly now, obviously. I remember you saying 25% change if ammonia is .25. 50% change of ammonia is .5. Does that mean I shouldn't change the water if ammonia is at 0?
Also, is there a way to properly figure out how much to feed him without weighing him? I've always just kind of guessed but now it concerns me.
That's great the ammonia/nitrite are at zero! I am glad to hear he is healed up!
Now, its time to monitor the tank. You want to keep an eye on your nitrate levels and keep them at or below 20ppm (lower is always better!). One 50% wc a week will likely be sufficient but if you see them creeping up faster, you can do o wcs a week.
In respect to feeding, offer him small meals 2-4x a day. Bascially what he can eat in under a few minutes and can clean up completely. A few smaller meals are better than one big meal. My guess is he is still pretty small?
It depends on what you consider to be small. I think he's pretty big. He was big when I got him two years ago. If you scroll up, you can see him in comparison to his 10g tank.
Is it dangerous to do a water change if the levels for everything are good?
Hello Mason,i cant see the spots you say on the pics,but i suggest you look about all the possible diseases and look carefully the symptoms for any disease maybe there will be any symptom that describes those spots that are shown on your gold fish.If you don't see any symptom that is described for each illness you gonna study on your fish,then don't worry,it might be something normal.Is is describes somewhere then look for possible cures for it!
Sometime fishes when get adult they change something on the look.
just try to keep your water between the parameters needed for your gold fish,and everything will be fine.
As long as you temperature match & properly condition the new water, water changes are safe to do and should be done atleast weekly to remove dissolved solids (which we do not test for), lower nitrates and restore lost buffers and minerals.
I think that's a natural cartilaginous fiber bundle. Gold fish get them in their dorsal fins as they grow.